Sunday, September 2, 2012

Have I found my calling?
(dedicated to Richard and Jeni, who both tried but ... ... ...!!)
 
It seems some time since I have written anything creative, vaguely intellectual or indeed irreverent; it’s got something to do with her indoors and a cracked record that keeps repeating things like “Why aren’t you on the roof!” “Oh, there you are, I thought you were on the roof!” “Once the roof is finished you can do what you like!” ... ... ... ad infinitum!! In fact, I’m thinking of walking to Santiago along the route of St Jacques or Camino de Santiago de Compostela, it’s only about 1500 km, and as well as a clue as to what might come later it might give me a month or three’s peace!!
So, be warned what follows is certainly irreverent, possibly creative but may fail intellectually!
In the distant past, it might surprise some of you to know, that I thought about becoming a vicar, yes you did read that right – taking the cloth, become a priest!  I was only about six at the time and became a choir boy at St Mark’s Church, Biggin Hill, a church with a remarkable history that, quite literally, started in Peckham, SE London, with an equally remarkable vicar, the Rev Vivian Symonds. He moved to Biggin Hill as a curate, in 1951, found there was no proper consecrated church there and therefore he couldn’t be ordained.  So with limited funds he quite simply set to and almost singlehandedly, moved a redundant church “All Saints, Peckham,” brick by brick and created the current St Mark’s Church in Biggin Hill, also not surprisingly known as “The Moving Church,” whilst carrying out the job of parish priest and chaplain for the nearby famous RAF Station.  For the full story, visit www.bigginhill-history.co.uk/movingmain.htm.  Now whether it was the amazing story behind the church and particularly the herculean task carried out by the vicar, or simply the fact that he would fairly regularly give me and the other choir boys half a crown for services rendered, and I know many of you will have jumped to the wrong conclusion here – the press have a lot to answer for!! -  it was for singing at weddings!, but he made a great impression on me and for a time, I wanted to be like him.  But, at six, I also wanted to ring the bell on a fire engine, with my brother as the driver!
Then many years later, having moved on through being an architect, a vet, a chef and various other diverse and varied careers, I was influenced by a young teacher at my secondary school, who made a similar impression, although being only small when he tried to tackle me on the rugby field, it was me who made the impression and left him rubbing a sore head and asking how much I weighed!!  But, as I guess the expression is, that was it and the rest is history, as I headed for the blackboards in various parts of the country.  Interestingly, throughout my career, said blackboards, for politically correct reasons, became chalk boards, which in turn due to technological advances became whiteboards – I certainly taught through interesting times!!  (Why I ask myself can we h have whiteboards but not blackboards?)  Although, briefly during this time there was another vicar who had a profound effect on me, but again it might have been for ulterior motives, quite simply that he got me legitimately out of the rather Victorian boarding school in which I was incarcerated!  The Headmaster could barely object if we wanted to go out in the evening to “prayer meetings” at the vicarage, even if we didn’t have any of our 3 late passes left for the term!!  These evening meetings took place in the converted garage of the Vicarage, included girls (a rarity as I was at an all boys school!), coffee, discussions on a variety of issues which were certainly not exclusively religious and more importantly introduced me to Folk Song and life on the streets, as in down and outs rather than prostitution!  Now, I should explain here that these seemingly rather revolutionary evenings didn’t get me thrown out of school and into the gutter, but the vicar in question had come to our sleepy little south coast town from the bright lights of London, the church of St Martin’s in the Field off Trafalgar Square to be precise, where he had been instrumental in setting up the Crypt Folk Club, as well as being very active in the Soup Kitchen for “down and outs” or homeless people, also in the Crypt, and Centrepoint, a hostel for young homeless people set up by the church and housed in a next door building.  Through his contacts we were to visit both the Folk Club and Soup Kitchen and, with the latter in particular, to broaden my experience and outlook on life.  He went on to open a Folk Club in a redundant church in the town, where again due to links with the church we were able to go.  It was here I saw such amazing acts such as Decameron, Davey Graham, Holly Gwinn Graham, Mike Moran, Keith Pearson (now part of Coup de Grass) and many more who started my enduring love of Folk Music.  All exciting stuff, and set up by a vicar, so as an impressionable young lad ... ... ..., just perhaps ... ... ... the cloth ......... nah, not really!!  A recent blog post you may have read, chronicled my return to the stage! after an absence of many years, and watch this space for a future post – Musical Moments in Time – Remember Monster Mash, sung by Bobby and the Crypt-Kickers in 1973, well ......... but, that’s another story for another time!!!
And, it was fairly recently, whilst still “teaching,” although this involved increasingly filling in forms, maintaining buildings, fighting with budgets, percentages, jobsworths and supposed educational experts, as well as the odd unruly pupil, that two very different vicars; one who found religion whilst in prison and another who wore Doc Martin boots and swigged pints of bitter with the best of them, when she wasn’t feeding the chickens or polishing the old VW campervan, that both the aforementioned tried to convert me, or maybe that should be save me!!!  One simply saw me as something of a light-hearted challenge, although like the young teacher above found me to be something of an immovable object, the other tried more subtle means!!
Both might now be rather surprised to find I am regularly in the habit of rescuing lost souls and returning them to the correct path to enlightenment!  Maybe I’ve been saved as well as those I rescue, and here I continue with an article I recently wrote, in a series entitled “View across La Manche.”  La manche meaning sleeve in French and what the French call The English Channel, to go in the Magazine of the Association of Countryside Volunteers, of which I am the Magazine Editor and current Vice Chair
View across La Manche
 
I’m sure that many of you will recall Marian Shepley’s moving account “Easter 2011 ~ A walk along a Camino (......and Alan came too!)?”  You may also recall the extract I included of a letter I had written to Marian after receiving her account.  In this I mentioned that one of the official Ways of St James passes through St Laurent de la Salle, very close to our new house, and how the gîte opposite has regular pilgrims staying overnight on their journey along the route.  They often have interesting stories to tell and I thought it would be interesting to tell you a little more about “Walking to Santiago,” although rather irreverently when stopped by one of these pilgrims asking  “Is this is the way to Santiago” I do have to stop myself bursting into song and singing “Show me the way to Santiago!”.  Yes, I know it should really be “Is this the way to Amarillo” but it scans just as well and there is something rather bizarre about being stopped by a complete stranger in the heart of rural Vendée, France, and being asked the way to a small city of some 95,000 population in the north western tip of Spain about 1200 km (750 miles) away by foot or 750 km (460 miles) if you happen to be a crow!!
The Way of St James or St James’ Way has many different names: Chemins de Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle (French), El Camino de Santiago (Spanish), O Camiño de Santiago (Galician), Jakobsweg (German), Done Jakue bidea (Basque),as well as simply The Pilgrim Route, to name a few and is not just a single pilgrimage route to the  Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in northwestern Spain, where tradition has it that the remains of the apostle St James are buried.  And, although there are four main routes identified across France and all converging on the main route across northern Spain, there are many other official routes spreading widely across Europe, including several starting across La Manche in England, as shown on this Wikipedia map below.  Indeed, for a very full history of The Way of St James and associated references go to:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Way_of_St._James.  The whole route was designated a UNESCO cultural World Heritage Site in 1993.
But, all the routes have in common, the scallop shell route markers, the shell ridges orientated in such a way as to show the direction of the route and designated stopping points (such as the gîte opposite our house and churches or public buildings) where pilgrims are able to get their “St James Passports” or credencial stamped with official stamps and a recent pilgrim staying in the gîte told us that this passport is vital to be allowed to stay in one of the hostels or refugios along the route in Spain.  “Ours” and I believe the other routes, also have guide books with the Way shown in them, but those I have seen to date, when rescuing pilgrims who have strayed, are very simple and quite difficult to follow, however experience also tells me that the route is extremely well marked, except perhaps when there is warm wet summer weather, and the undergrowth takes a spurt!!  I am not sure if I would want to rely on these simple guides, but I suppose there is the consideration of not carrying too much weight when walking for two or three months, and as pilgrims I guess they have a powerful friend on their side, or at least kindly natives who will rescue them when they are in need!!   I have fairly often found a lost soul walking around in circles completely off the map and with no idea where they are, often it is a case of bundling them in the car and returning them to a part of the route I know is nearby and wishing them God’s speed, or at least “Good-bye enjoy the rest of your walk.”  The pilgrims also often carry a scallop shell like a badge attached to their rucksacks, but this was also a useful item in the past, being suitable as both a drinking vessel and a makeshift bowl.
In pre-Christian times the route was a Roman trade route christened “The Milky Way” as it followed the Milky Way to the Atlantic Ocean.  Then, in Medieval times a common Spanish legend about El Camino de Santiago, a popular name for the Milky Way, tells of how the stars of the Milky Way are actually formed by the dust created by the feet of all the pilgrims and indeed Compostela itself means “field of stars!” 
In pre-Christian times the route was a Roman trade route christened “The Milky Way” as it followed the Milky Way to the Atlantic Ocean.  Then, in Medieval times a common Spanish legend about El Camino de Santiago, a popular name for the Milky Way, tells of how the stars of the Milky Way are actually formed by the dust created by the feet of all the pilgrims and indeed Compostela itself means “field of stars!” 
Well in excess of 100,000 pilgrims have “completed” the route in recent years and in 2010, a Holy Year, over 279,000 pilgrims received a Compostela, or certificate of completion.  However, to qualify for this you must have walked a minimum of 100 km or cycled a minimum of 200 km and your passport is carefully checked to verify this before you are asked if the purpose of your camino or walk was “religious”, “religious and other” or simply “other”!  For the first two you will receive a Compostela in Latin, but for other your Compostela will be in Spanish and will ask for this heathen to be blessed!
Each day at noon a pilgrim’s mass is held in the cathedral and those pilgrims who received their Compostelas the previous day are announced, with their country of origin and starting point of their pilgrimage. 
“Pilgrims” walk, or indeed cycle or ride on horses or donkeys for many reasons, be they religious or simply as sport and a challenge.  For many it is a spiritual journey to remove themselves from the rigours of modern day life, or others use it as a religious retreat.  In “autrefois” (olden days) such pilgrimages might have been made as a penance to “atone for temporal punishment” and to this day there is a tradition in Flanders, to free one prisoner each year, on the condition they walk the route to Santiago, accompanied by a guard – I wonder if the guards are volunteers or perhaps it’s part of a disciplinary procedure, for misconduct!! 
Well, some of you may recall that whilst still a Headteacher, if there had been a particularly trying day I would joke with my staff and say “If I’m not here in the morning I’ll be on my olive grove in the south of France!”  Well, I ended up not in the south of France and certainly not in an olive grove, however, should I go missing, it might just now be worth a look along the route to Santiago!!
A final thought, and not wishing to be irreverent, you must have to be fairly well off to be a pilgrim these days (so maybe I won’t get far!!); one last year was walking as far as he could in two months starting in northern Brittany, having flown over from Canada, to where he was flying back after two months and he had allowed a generous fifty Euros a day for the duration.  If you do the maths it certainly isn’t a cheap package holiday, although some of the refugios on the popular stretches are very cheap some even free, and you have to get up most days and walk anything up to 25 to 30 km at least (15 to 18 miles), day after day after day!!  But, the walk provides lots of time to admire the scenery, to think, take stock and for many to find peace or spirituality, as well as a hell of a sense of achievement.  And, the pilgrims come regularly, often alone or in pairs, in all shapes and sizes as well as ages from 20 ish to 86 being the oldest I’ve heard about and he was walking from London to Santiago de Compostela, following the death of his wife.
P.S.  The roof is indeed now finished so, as they say hereabouts à bientot.
 
 
 

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